Seychelles: An exhilarating week of beaches and trails

Blessed with a spectacular topography, Seychelles is home to unique flora and fauna. The island is the only place where you can get your hands on the ‘forbidden fruit’ – the Coco de Mer which is the largest and heaviest fruit in the world. Seychelles is also one of very few destinations where you can get up close to wild, giant tortoises. The islands of Seychelles are perfectly spaced from one another, allowing you to hop your way easily. Mahe, Praslin and La Digue are less than an hour away by ferry ride, and travelers can avail of the Inter-Island Ferry Service.  You can also visit Cousin, Curieuse, St. Pierre Islands by signing up for private boat trips, as well the Saint Anne Marine National Park (from Mahe). Explore the stunning, secluded beaches, go bird watching, swim around spectacular reefs and say hello to giant tortoises; the range of activities you can try out is excellent. 

We chose to travel during last week of Apr-May

Before Travel

• International Travel Insurance
• All the hotel, local tour, sightseeing, cab bookings can be done online or through WhatsApp contact (is very popular in Seychelles), to plan/manage your itinerary better.
• Complete the Travel Authorization online (open 10 days before the travel): The TA document is essential for travel and will be required at check-in counters. Visitors failing to provide the TA document will not be allowed by the airline company to board for Seychelles. You can also select and pay for local SIM while submitting TA, and collect at the destination airport. 
• Local SIM card: Airtel or Cable & Wireless
• To carry: Hat, Bathing wear, Swim wear, Beach dress, Sunscreen, Towel, Mosquito repellent, Cream against bug bites, Anti-nausea tablets (for Ferry rides, can be rough at times), Water proof bag (very handy), Sunglasses
• Adaptors: Throughout Seychelles the voltage is 220-240 volts AC 50 Hz. Seychelles uses the British standard square three-pin,13 amp sharp electric plug. Visitors from countries other than the United Kingdom are advised to bring their own adaptors.

Day 1

Mahe Airport - Praslin

We landed at Mahe international airport around 13:30 (afternoon), travelling Emirates. Collected Airtel SIM (bought while completing TA) at the exit, as well bought another SIM from Cable & Wireless at the airport counter, so that both of us together have broader coverage. 5GB data would do, even if one is heavily using the mobile for maps and internet.

We had booked the Ferry to Praslin along with Airport to Ferry terminal shuttle bus online prior to departure. At Mahe Airport, the shuttle bus is located just outside the terminal building. After collecting the baggage and clearing customs, exit into the arrivals hall. Just look for the Creole Travel Services airport representatives who will direct you to the shuttle bus. Mahe airport is relatively small, so one should have no problems finding it. The shuttle bus leaves the airport no later than 1 hour before the scheduled ferry departure time. Journey time to the Victoria jetty is approximately 15-20 minutes.

At the Victoria Jetty, checked in the luggage and stood in queue for the Ferry. The Ferry ride was exciting and good experience at the Upper deck, with rain water splashing.

Praslin Ferry Terminal to Hotel

On reaching Praslin jetty, we took the cab (from Coconut Services booked online, payment in cash onsite) to the hotel, La Petite Maison & Sea Splash. Reached the self-catering hotel around 6:30 PM, freshened up, had a sumptuous home cooked dinner (room-served by the hotel, let them know in advance if you opt for dinner / BF for the day) and retired for the day.

Day 2 

We opted for a rental car for 3 days while at Praslin. Is the most affordable option for transportation while on the island. Narrow roads, without street lights can be a challenge, but will get used to and is safe to drive. At 8 AM sharp, the rental car (was booked online, part payment, rest in Euro onsite) was delivered at our hotel, where the agent explained in detail the procedure and expectations.

Fond Ferdinand, Praslin

After a lavish breakfast at the place of stay, headed to Fond Ferdinand for a tour. 

We chose Fond Ferdinand instead of UNESCO world heritage site Vallee de Mai Reserve. Both are similar, where one can see Coco de Mer, while Fond Ferdinand comes with a guided tour by default (in the ticket), has a better trail (recommended by the locals), and is less expensive. Tickets can be purchased on the website of the Seychelles Island Foundation (SIF) in advance (discounted) or on-site. The guided tour started around 9:45 AM and ended around 11:30 AM

Anse Georgette, Praslin

After an exhausting trail at Fond Ferdinand, quickly came back to the hotel, freshened up, and headed to Anse Georgette through Constance Lemuria Resort. We had booked access through the resort, days in advance through our place of stay. One has to go through the resort's golf course and quite a bit of walking  to get to the secluded beach. There is a longer trail route from Anse Lazio to Anse Georgette

Lunch at Paradisier Restaurant, Praslin

The long trails and walks left one exhausted, and with great anticipation, walked into Paradisier for an Italian cuisine lunch, as it was on the way back from Anse Georgette. However, the food and service wasn't great and too expensive. Would recommend any other from the list below of restaurants to try

Cote D'Or Beach, Praslin

On the way to Anse Lazio, a 45 minute refreshing beach walk at Cote D'Or beach was worth the time spent. Is a long beach and we walked quite a distance in search of the famous set of bent palm trees found right in front of “Galerie Passerose”, seen as a great spot to take some tropical vacation photos. Though we found one, was crowded with locals and there wasn't enough space to take photos.

Anse Lazio, Praslin

We skipped Anse Boudin on the way, as we wanted to reach earlier for the sunset experience at Anse Lazio. Wow, what a sunset experience for ages! 

Dinner at La Goulue, Praslin

On the way back to the hotel, pit-stopped for an early dinner (around 6:45 PM) at La Goulue.

Day 3

A day long guided snorkeling tour of Curieuse & St Pierre islands.

Curieuse & St Pierre islands

Quickly finished the lavish continental breakfast at Seasplash, and got ready for the pick up at the hotel for the day long snorkeling tour of Curieuse and St Pierre islands The tour was arranged by Geoli Charters and booked online (part payment, rest in Euro onsite after the tour). 

Picked us up around 9 AM from the hotel in a 15-20 seater bus. Around 9:35 AM we were in the boat and ready to start the tour. The initial pit stop was for a close to an hour snorkeling at St. Pierre Island. This was followed by a visit to Curieuse island, an hour long walk through mangrove swamp boardwalk from one side to the other side of the island, where a BBQ lunch was arranged, with Giant Tortoises around. On the way back, another snorkeling session was worth the time spent

Dinner at Lobster Bay Restaurant, Praslin

At Praslin, quite a few of the restaurants are closed on Monday. Plan in advance. To our surprise, there was enough range for vegetarians in the Lobster Bay Restaurant

Day 4

A healthy, out of breath, wet day tour to La Digue, an experience of a lifetime

La Digue

Boarded Cat Rose, an inter island ferry service from Praslin jetty to La Digue, a short 15 minute ride. Tickets were booked online in advance. On reaching La Digue, exiting the ferry terminal on the main street, bicycles were ready for us to tour La Digue. It is highly recommended to rent bicycles to cover the island, taxis are few in number, and it may take longer to walk from one beach to the next. Even a tricycle is available for rent, for those who are not comfortable riding two wheeler bicycle. We had booked these bicycles online through Stan Bike rental (part payment, rest in Euro by cash onsite)

Breakfast at Old Pier Cafe, La Digue

We had planned for breakfast at La Repaire hotel, but the breakfast was closed by the time we reached (10:15 AM). Disappointingly on an empty stomach we cycled to nearby cafes but none were open around that time. Losing hope, headed to L'Union estate, bought the entry ticket at the counter, in anticipation to visit one of the famous beaches in the world, Anse Source d'Argent. Surprisingly on the way, found Old Pier Café, that was open for breakfast. A decent breakfast mingled with great photoshoots next to the café, energized us to the next big pitstop.

Anse Source d’Argent, La Digue

This is one of the most famous, instagrammable beaches in the world, known for its stunning granite boulders and crystal-clear waters. The beach is perfect for swimming, snorkeling, and sunbathing. The beach is also famous for having been used in several prominent photoshoots and films, including movies such as Castaway and Crusoe. This world famous beach is the major reason for visitors to L'Union estate, the only point of entry to this beach, and that too one needs to buy a ticket to the estate.

Grand Anse Beach, La Digue

Roughly 45 minutes of cycling, through up and downhill roads, motivating each other, finally reached Grand Anse beach.  This long, wide beach with turquoise waters, and pristine golden-white sand is perfect for photos. It’s generally not very crowded during the hours with the most active sun, because there are no palm trees and there’s no place to hide from the sun.

Lunch at Mimi's Café, La Digue

A hectic day of cycling through uphill, downhill winding roads and mild showers along the way, drove us to Mimi's Cafe, for the much deserved pit stop of lunch. Drenched in sand, we parked our bicycles, tidied up and sat for lunch which was refreshingly good.

We completed our lunch around 3:30 PM and there want much time left to visit other beaches or further sight seeing, as well started raining heavily. Thus headed back wet to drop the bicycle near the ferry terminal and into the shades of the terminal. Departed at 5 PM from La Digue and back to Praslin by 5:15 PM, heading straight for early dinner.

Dinner at Les Rochers Restaurant, Praslin

On the way to dinner at Les Rochers, filled up the petrol tank, and withdraw local cash at ATM. In Praslin, there are only few petrol stations to fill gasoline, thus one needs to plan accordingly. We had reserved a table in advance at the restaurant, as it gets crowded late into the evening. 

Day 5

Praslin to Mahe Ferry

Bid goodbye to Praslin, and took the morning ferry (booked online) at 8 AM to Mahe. The rental car, a brand new Suzuki Swift, that we booked online for the entire duration at Mahe, was waiting for us at the Victoria Ferry terminal exit.

Breakfast at La Dolce Vita, Mahe

From the ferry terminal, we immediately headed for breakfast at La Dolce Vita, next to Victoria clock tower (though iconic, is too short to catch attention or stop to marvel or for photos)

Checked into Beach Cottages

After a stomach filling breakfast, filled petrol and rode to Beach Cottages, our place of stay at Mahe.

Eden Island

Checked in to the cottage, freshened up, relaxed for a while exploring the surroundings, and planned to head to Anse Major. However, to get to Anse Major, one either will have to trek or catch a private boat. We almost hired a private boat taxi to take us there, but canceled as it started raining and instead headed to Eden Island (man made island). The only notable mall in Seychelles can be found here on this island. 

Lunch at The Maharajas, Eden Island

After a little bit of shopping and ATM at the mall, we walked into an empty Indian restaurant, The Maharajas, facing the bay. After lunch as there wasn't much to loiter around, we exited the island 

Mirante La Misere, Mahe

On the way back, took a stop at Mirante La Misere, an excellent view point (observation deck) at a height.

On the way back, stopped at Vimal supermarket for quick bites, soft drinks and instant noodles (to cook for dinner), reached Beach cottages around 6 PM, freshened up, prepared easy and quick dinner (self-catering cottages), and retired for the day early.

Day 6

An exhilarating day of adventurous trails, scenic beaches and long drive along the coast!

Breakfast at A Taste of Italy, Mahe

Started the day with breakfast at A Taste of Italy restaurant, right in the middle of the bustling street in Victoria next to the market

Sir Selwyn Selwyn-Clarke Market, Mahe

After breakfast, walked into the market for souvenirs, and bought few.

Copolia Trail, Mahe

An Out-and-Back trail of a lifetime, lasting 3+ hours, including 30 minutes on the top of the plateau experiencing the mesmerizing views of the entire Mahe island. This is one of the several trails through Morne Seychellois National Park, is most popular, and one needs to buy an entry ticket. Morne Blanc Trail and Trois Freres Trails are the other popular ones.

Lunch at Del Place Restaurant, Mahe

Exhilarated after the trail, we headed for lunch to Del Place restaurant, the best restaurant experience of our entire stay at Seychelles

Port Launay Beach, Mahe

After a sumptuous lunch, a quick drive to the Port Launay beach nearby, marked the start of our beach tour along the coast.

Anse Soleil Beach, Mahe

An approximate 35 minutes drive from Port Launay, reached Anse Soleil beach around 3:30 PM. Stayed for a short while.

Anse Takamaka Beach, Mahe

Driving further along the west coast, reached Anse Takamaka Beach, another beautiful beach to pitstop and take pictures.

Anse Intendence Beach, Mahe

Further few kilometres from Anse Takamaka is one of the most picturesque beaches in Mahe, Anse Intendence, with stunning views of the ocean and palm trees lining the shore. The beach is popular for surfing, swimming, and sunbathing. A must visit while in Mahe

Anse Royale Beach, Mahe

Another 20 minutes from Anse Intendence, is the Anse Royale Beach, on the east coast. The last beach on this stretch that we stopped. Though we had attempted for Sunset beach further down the coast, we couldn't find one, and headed for Dinner. On the way, took a quick halt at Kumar & Kumar supermarket for soft drinks

Dinner at Mahek, Mahe

Facing the Beau Vallon beach, is the Indian restaurant, Mahek, inside the 4-star Coral Strand Smart Choice Hotel. A must visit restaurant for Indian tourists while at Mahe.

Day 7

A memorable day of snorkeling and island hops at Sainte Anne Marine National Park, the best day tour of the trip. A tour that we were almost on the verge of canceling (for fear of another trail 😊). 

Sainte Anne Marine National Park

Though there were quite a few online booking tours, after a long search decided to go with Dolphin Nemo tours, reading online reviews. Contacted them on WhatsApp, booking confirmed through WhatsApp, with payment on the day of the tour. A very well managed day tour, with pickup and drop, as well BBQ for lunch. Friendly tour host, great boat captain and crews, patient enough to take us through an assisted snorkeling, and an experience of glass bottom boat sums up the perfect trip of the tour. 

Sainte Anne Marine National Park consists of 6 small islands surrounding Mahe. We stopped at two wonderful spots for snorkelling, one on the way to Long Island and the other returning from Moyenne Island. At the morning spot, few minutes into snorkelling, one of the kids in our group was stung by a fish (possibly stingray), and the boat captain immediately diverted to a different spot. Here, the boat crew encouraged us to snorkel, even if not comfortable in swimming with waves, and he was patient enough to assist us throughout so that we can experience the coral reef and the beauty beneath.

Fabulous powder soft beaches and beautiful turquoise waters define the Long Island. Excellent place for photo shoots. 90+ minutes on this island, lunch and a relaxing break on hammock, we started to Moyenne Island.  Moyenne island is characterized by white sand and granite boulders, and its lush green cover is beautiful. One needs to pay entry fees for a tour of the island. Considered to be the smallest national park in Seychelles, there is a well-marked trail that takes roughly an hour to complete, circling the island. 

Another stop for snorkeling while returning, we reached back at Eden Island marina bay around 5 PM and were dropped by van back at the hotel. 

Dinner at Trader Vic's, Mahe

Freshened up after a long day on water, and drive to the nearby Trader Vic's Restaurant located at the 5-star Story Resort hotel

Day 8

Early morning flight back to India via Dubai. Drove to the international airport, reaching around 5 AM, and after a smooth return of the rental car, headed to check-in. The counters weren't open by then and it looked like that we were the amongst the first 5 to the airport on that day. Thus ends an exhilarating week of 8 days 7 nights at Seychelles, an archipelago of 115 islands in the Indian Ocean, off East Africa. 

Other Places of Interest at Praslin (we couldn't cover)

• Vallee de Mai Reserve: Some people say that if Seychelles is paradise on earth, then the Valley of May is the Garden of Eden in this paradise. Located in the middle of Praslin Island, the Valley of May, also known as the Mahe Valley, is the world's smaller natural heritage, home to the sea coconut, famous for its more than 7,000 sea coconut trees. Vallée de Mai, translates to May Valley in French. This UNESCO World Heritage site is home to the iconic Coco de Mer palm tree, which produces the largest seed in the plant kingdom. 
• Cousin Island: There are day tours that take to Cousin, St.Pierre and Curieuse islands. However we didn't opt for a tour that included Cousin island as I read online on the mosquito menace in this island. Didn't experience too many mosquitos in other islands. 

Beaches:

• Petite Anse Lazio
• Anse Boudin

Restaurants

• Cafe des Arts
• Les Lauriers
• Pirogue Restaurant & Bar
• St Pierre Beach Restaurant: Great view during lunch, but one needs to book many days in advance for a table.

Other Places of Interest at La Digue (we couldn't cover)

• Nid d'Aigle: This is the highest point on the island and offers panoramic views of La Digue and the surrounding islands. It's a great place to take a hike and enjoy the scenery.
• Veuve Reserve: This is a nature reserve that is home to the rare Seychelles Paradise Flycatcher, also known as the Veuve. The reserve offers visitors a chance to see this rare bird in its natural habitat.
• Cocos & Felicite Islands

Beaches:

• Anse Cocos
• Petite Anse
• Anse Marron: A 1 hour hike, allowed only through a guided tour

Restaurants

• Le Repaire - Boutique Hôtel & Restaurant 
• Chez Jules Restaurant
• Belle Vue: For sunset view
• Rey & Josh Cafe Takeaway

Other Places of Interest at Mahe (we couldn't cover)

• Morne Blanc Trail & Trois Freres Trail in Morne Seychellois National Park (covers 20% of Mahe)
• Baie Ternay Marine National Park
• Mission Lodge Lookout: This viewpoint offers breathtaking views over the island and the surrounding ocean. The site was once a school for freed slaves, and you can learn more about the history of Seychelles while taking in the panoramic views
• Seychelles National Botanical Garden

Beaches:

• Anse Major
• Beau Vallon (favorite of locals): Though we went to a restaurant next to the beach, couldn't spend time on the beach as it was late evening
• Petit Anse

Restaurants

• The Boat House restaurant: Great view, Creole buffet at night. Recommended to reserve a table
• La Perle Noire: Is recommended to reserve a table before visiting
• The Boardwalk Bar & Grill (Eden Island)
• Marie Antoinette
• The Copper Pot: Indian food, for takeaway, recommended by local Indians.

Tips

• Comparative price analysis: A tender coconut water costs ~ 10 times of its price in India, mineral water / soft drinks ~7x, while eating out at restaurants ~5x, and gasoline (petrol) almost the same price as in India
• While traveling from India, ensure that you carry enough Euros (as cash) as most of the tours/restaurants accept Euro. Forex card in Euro turned out to be expensive to withdraw in Seychellean Rupees when compared to using international debit card (to withdraw cash at the ATMs). When we travelled, the conversion rate through international debit card (Kotak) was ~Rs. 6.26 to Rs. 6.44 (when withdrawn through a Euro loaded forex card)

Closing Notes

As I conclude this travel blog, I am overwhelmed with a range of emotions, from the exhilarating adventurous trail walks to the serenity of the beautiful, instaworthy beaches, basking in the warm hospitality of the people of the country. As I reflect on the memories made (captured through ~1000 photos) and the places explored, I am filled with a profound sense of gratitude for the experiences, proud of the destination that we chose. Though expensive, it was worth the time and money spent. Equally memorable was the ease with which one can plan and book everything remotely by oneself (online or through WhatsApp), and the comfort of service, safety, and approachability.