Discovering Goa (in October): A 5-Day Travel Diary

Day 1: Arrival in Goa

Started early from Hyderabad, around 4 AM, embarking on a long drive to Goa through highways and deserted roads (at times) with long stretches. Our plan was to take a breakfast pitstop at Hotel Nisarga, Manvi, but to our surprise that day it wasn’t open around 8:30 AM. Thus, dropping the breakfast plan, we sped to our next pitstop for lunch at Sugar N Spice, Hubli (slight detour). Non-stop drive except for fuel breaks (& toilet) and lunch, at decent speed, deserted to manageable traffic, helped us cover ~700 Kms in around 12 hours, reaching Club Mahindra, Varca. 

There are 2 major road routes from Hyderabad to Goa, 1) via Raichur - Hubli; 2) Solapur. We took Route 1 while going to Goa. It had long stretch of highways, especially NH 67 that was deserted for stretches. However quite a few areas on this route were rough and bumpy. Watch out for high-speed bumps on this road, multiple times our car's bottom was tested putting shock absorbers at play. On the way back from Goa, we drove through the Solapur route. Neat long roads, less bumpy and not too crowded till Zaheerabad, make it a better choice compared to route 1 (unless there is heavy traffic or road works). 

Club Mahindra, Varca 

A long drive and a smooth check-in later we are in our room at Club Mahindra, Varca. Pre-checkin on the web, helped save time. Dropping in the luggage, we took a quick tour of the resort including its Happy Hub and stepped out to Varca beach through the resort's private path. After making a spa inquiry/booking at Svaastha, and enjoying a quick coffee break overlooking the pool, we headed for a refreshing break before stepping out for dinner. 

Martin’s Corner, Betalbatim 

We had initially planned to go to Cavatina by Avinash Martins, but was closed on Mondays. Thus decided to go to the famous Martin's Corner, made popular by celebrities (is known as Sachin Tendulkar's favorite). A dinner well spent; we headed back to the resort.

Day 2: Dudhsagar Falls

We read online that the falls were crowded and there were long lines, so we went early. Roughly an hour drive from CM, Varca, we reached the place to witness the chaos of long winding queues, confused visitors, cows on the road looking for food in the queue and operators everywhere with very little information or clarity. The staff deployed to answer queries was of no help and was on headphones most of the time viewing videos on the mobile.

One must reserve online at https://www.dudhsagarjeeps.com/, before visiting and standing in a queue. We were lucky to stumble upon this information, a few days in advance. This information wasn't easily available online and many in the queue weren't aware and were desperately trying to book online while standing in line. Because of the heavy rush (Dussehra week), the online bookings were full within the early hours of the morning, and it seemed that only online booking was entertained for that day. Even after reserving online, it took roughly 90 minutes to get to the counter for the jeep to be allocated. The jeep driver was quick to start, each carries 7 people, and costs Rs.500/head. A few distance later at the forest reserve check point, another long line to pay entry (Rs.100/head) and digital camera (Rs.50) fees, along with bag checks for plastics, took another 30 minutes, before the jeep could enter the forest. A bumpy, off-road driving (the only walking trail that was allowed during this period) for 10 kms takes 45 minutes before we reached the spot of drop-off. 

One must return by the same jeep, within 90 minutes, or else will have to pay a penalty of Rs.300/head. From the drop-off point, it takes 15-20 minutes of walk through gravels and slippery road. Ensure that one wears footwear with good grip. After all the waiting and walking, it is a sight to behold upon reaching the spot. The beauty of the falls cascading from a height and the experience of swimming in the pond at the bottom make it truly special. The icing on the cake is witnessing the train crossing the falls from a height, picturesque moment reminiscent of the scenes in the movie 'Chennai Express'.

Additional Information: Is fifth largest, one of the highest waterfalls in India and measures a mighty 600m from head to foot. The Konkani name for the falls, which literally translated means “sea of milk”, derives from clouds of milky foam which rises at the bottom of the falls. Dudhsagar is set amidst breathtaking scenery overlooking a steep, crescent-shaped head of a valley carpeted with pristine tropical forest.

 

By the time, we got back to the car parking area, it was around 2:30 PM, and our subsequent plans to head to Agonda and Palolem beaches went kaput. We headed back to the resort and ordered room dining as we were past the lunch dining hours. A refreshing relax at the Spa, followed by Dussehra events and dining at the resort, before retiring for the day.

Day 3: North Goa, Churches & Food

Checked out from the resort in South Goa around 8 AM, for the second half of our trip at North Goa. 

 

45 minutes into the drive, stopped for breakfast at Caravela Café at Panaji. A sumptuous, expensive breakfast later, started our tour from Immaculate Conception Church. The church was closed for repairs (I guess). However, could take photos from outside, with the church in the background. From the church, drove a short distance to the Fontainhas quarter, looking to walk through the narrow lanes housing old Portuguese architecture. However, the Google map either took us to a wrong place or the lane wasn’t worth visiting. Though it was colorful to an extent, not worth the photos seen on web. After the disappointment of Fontainhas quarter, we headed to Padaria Prazeres, a well-known Portuguese bakery. We got some of the popular bakery items packed (takeaway) and had an espresso as we waited. Then we made our way to Basilica of Bom Jesus. The iconic church is a pilgrimage center and recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Holds the mortal remains of St Francis Xavier. Spent around half an hour at Basilica of Bom Jesus, then crossed the road to Se Cathedral. The Sé Catedral de Santa Catarina, known as Se Cathedral, is the cathedral of the Latin Church Archdiocese of Goa and Daman and the seat of the Patriarch of the East Indies.

From the church, headed to Reis Magos Fort, a 16th-century restored fort with sweeping river & sea views. Spent around half an hour at the fort, before we headed to Jamun (deservingly amongst the top 50 restaurants in India) for lunch. After a sumptuous lunch, drove to the Anjuna Flea Market. There wasn’t much to shop for, though there were few shops, and one had to walk some distance from the car parking.

From the market, headed to Club Mahindra, Assonora, to check-in for our stay during the remaining leg of our tour in Goa. A relatively newer resort of Club Mahindra, spacious, with lot of fun/play options at Happy Hub, nature trails, and good dining options. Wound the day with a lazy swim, few games at Happy Hub and an early dinner at Club Mahindra. 

Day 4: Fort & Beaches

Woke up to a relaxing day. The day began with a stroll along a paved path, lined by nature and flora in the resort, followed by a lavish buffet served at Curries. The resort known for its lazy river and a variety of pools, was worth experiencing. We ended up spending a good amount of time, enjoying these water games, before we freshened and headed to the Happy Hub for remaining games on the card.

Around 1:00 PM, left the resort on a packed itinerary covering forts and beaches. Headed straight to Gunpowder restaurant for lunch (which we had initially planned for dinner the previous night, but couldn’t). The restaurant didn’t rise to lofty expectations. From there, went to Chapora Fort (famous for Dil Chahta Hain iconic scene), a great place for photo shoots. The fort sits on a prominent position which commands views in all directions. It also has steep slopes on all sides. Spent around half an hour at the fort before we rode to the Baga beach. Baga beach is famous for water sports and night life. Skipped the nearby Calangute beach and market, and went straight to Sinquerim beach. We couldn’t cover the Aguada fort as we were late, but strolled around Taj Aguada towards the Sinquerim Fort viewpoint for a beautiful sunset view.

For an early Dinner, we went to The Black Sheep Bistro, an excellent restaurant to wind the day. A sumptuous dinner later, headed back to the resort. 

Day 5: Departure

Checked out early from the resort, around 6:30 AM. Decided to take the Solapur route on the way back. Roughly an hour of driving took us to a scenic view point (Tilari nagar valley view point) on the way, wherein we took a break for few lovely pics and views. 

Around 2 and half hours of drive from Goa, took a breakfast break at Amar restaurant, on the highway. Zooming on the fast NH, we reached Solapur around 12:30. Took a slight detour to the famous Nisarg hotel for lunch. The Maharashtrian food experience was worth trying for the detour. By 6PM we were back at home in Hyderabad.

This concludes a 5-day journey of amazing experiences of forts, beaches and restaurants, and the continuous drive in fast NHs, and a desire to come back to this lovely state.

Other Places of Interest (we couldn’t cover)

• South Goa: Agonda Beach, Palolem Beach
• North Goa: Fort Aguada (we were late), Anjuna Beach, Vagator Beach, Shree Manguesh Temple

Restaurants on the wish list (we couldn’t cover)

South Goa 

• Zest Café, Palolem
• Treetop Tava: Treetop Tava is a roof-top restaurant in the premises of The Bay Agonda. Treetop Tava serves various types of cuisines. The best part of the restaurant is the view
• Cavatina by Avinash Martins: Contemporary dining room serving a menu of upscale Italian dishes & some Indian flavors.
• Fisherman’s Wharf, At The Riverside, Salcette: Rustic, shack-style riverside restaurant serving Goan-style seafood with entertainment.
• Robin's Ark: Indian & Continental fare offered with a full bar in a spacious bungalow with outdoor seating.
• Kallistê: Mediterranean 
• Mickey’s Colva: Multicuisine casual shack on the beach with excellent view of the sea.
• Jamming Goat: Laid-back beachfront restaurant offering cocktails, tapas & other small plates, plus live music.

Panaji / Panjim

• Peep Kitchen: Indian, Chinese & Thai food is served at this colorful restaurant with a bright mural.
• For The Record - Vinyl Bar: FTR is India's first bar dedicated to vinyl records. A place to listen to some music on vinyl while sipping on the local brews. Is in top 50 restaurants of India
• Petisco- Kitchen & Bar: Continental, is in top 50 restaurants of India
• Kokni Kanteen: Coastal Konkani cuisine & thali served in a homely setting with red laterite walls & vintage props.
• Viva Panjim: Family-run restaurant in a colorful, heritage home offering traditional Goan specialties & seafood.
• Mum’s Kitchen, D. B. Street, Panaji – Miramar Road, Panaji: Bright, homey restaurant with an emphasis on traditional, down-home Goan offerings

Nerul

• Bhatti Village, Nerul: What to eat: Pork vindaloo, chicken xacuti, kaju feny, and cera dora- a Portugese sweet dish.
• The Lazy Goose: Goan cuisine, seafood dishes & Continental staples served in a nautical-themed riverside space.

Calangute

• Amavi by Sumera, Calangute: Upscale European cuisine presented in a modern-rustic open-air setting with a cool atmosphere.

Baga

• Britto's Restaurant & Bar, Baga: Spacious seaside restaurant with an energetic vibe, known for seafood & desserts.
• Toro, Baga: A grillhouse along the pristine Arpora-Baga creek adorned with a tough to miss tropical caravan bar. Cuisines include Goan, Continental, Asian & Seafood

Anjuna

• Baba Au Rhum, Anjuna: Thin-crust pizzas & craft beer served up in this casual cafe with outdoor seating under trees.
• Edible Archives: Is in top 50 restaurants of India
• Purple Martini, Anjuna: Bar & restaurant by the Arabian Sea, with Continental, Italian, Mediterranean & North Indian fare.
• Burger Factory, Anjuna: Quirky restaurant offering a wide variety of burgers amid cheese-grater fixtures & vibrant murals.
• Café Cotinga, Anjuna: Boutique hotel's bohemian garden cafe for European, Asian & Indian grub, popular with travellers.

Assagao

• Avo's Kitchen, Assagao: Goan Cuisine
• Sappadu, Assagao: Sappadu is a celebration of the exotic culinary heritage of Tamil Nadu. Elaborate vegetarian meals

Vagator

• Paz, Vagator: A quaint little place located in the interior of vagator - Paz is a great place for brunch! They offered a lovely sunny side up with grilled veggies
• Fishtail Bar & Restaurant: Co-owned by Ranveer Brar

Known for breakfast

• Artjuna, Anjuna: Portuguese-style cafe venue serving international dishes concentrating on health & wellness.
• Café Cotinga, Anjuna
• Lollo Rosso, Anjuna
• Bean Me Up, Vagator