Tiger Safari at Tadoba: Once in a lifetime experience

Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve is one of the best places to spot the majestic big cats in their natural habitat. Located in the Chandrapur district of Maharashtra, India, the reserve covers an area of 625 square kilometers and is home to around 115+ tigers, as well as leopards, sloth bears, wild dogs, gaur, sambar, nilgai, and many other wildlife species. The national park is divided into 3 forest ranges: Tadoba North Range, Moharli Range and Kolsa South Range. Each of these ranges has core zones and buffer zones. The buffer zone is the area surrounding or adjoining the Core Zone where conservation takes place along with some limited human activity.

We visited Tadoba in April 2024, which is considered the peak season for tiger sightings. The weather was hot and dry, with temperatures reaching 40+ degrees Celsius during the day. The forest was mostly brown and yellow, with patches of green here and there. The water sources were scarce and the animals were forced to come out of their hiding places to quench their thirst. This made it easier for us to spot them, especially near the waterholes.

We booked two safaris for the same day, one in the morning and one in the evening. Though booked a month in advance, we could get only the Pangadi for Core. Though a decent gate for Safari, it wasn’t as famous as Moharli or Kolara, as well isn’t known for frequent sightings. It is recommended that one book the Safari, before deciding on the resort or place to stay, based on the distance to the gate.

After booking(online) Pangadi Core for Morning Safari, we booked the Shirkheda Buffer (in a different zone, Kolara) for Afternoon Safari. Before booking, we consulted with Wildcat Resort, the place of our stay, who guided us and shared the experience.  

Day 1:  Hyderabad – Wildcat Resort – Nalleswar Dam

Starting around 5:30 AM from home, we reached Karimnagar by 8 AM for breakfast at Mayura Udupi Veg restaurant. Post the breakfast, non-stop drive on fast, clean, and smooth roads took us to Wildcat Resort by 1:20 PM, stopping once for bio/fuel and a couple of checking points (on Telangana side, considering the elections).

True to the initial impression of the Wildcat Resort, at the time of booking, of being homely, friendly and a neat, comfortable place to stay close to the jungle, they lived up to expectations and more. A warm welcome with cold, refreshing hand towel (every time when one enters the resort from outside) and a refreshing drink to start, the check-in was quick and smooth. They had asked us in advance if we would be reaching by lunch, thus a good spread of homely food ready waiting for us.

A sumptuous lunch and a refreshing afternoon nap later, the resort recommended us to visit Nalleshwar Dam, close to the resort for its migratory birds and beautiful sunset. We reached there by 5:30 PM, and loved the 70 minutes walk and photo shoots at the lake with sun setting. Back at the resort, we were treated to hot evening snacks and coffee, and few hours later to a homely dinner. During the dinner, the resort played a documentary on Tadoba and its big cats, their family tree and rule across the reserve, which prepared us in anticipation to next day’s safari.

Day 2: Fulfilling Safaris

With a hot packed breakfast along with ice-packed water bottles in well-arranged Cello like picnic box from the resort, a quick morning coffee later, we started from the resort around 5:20 AM to the Safari gate at Pangadi Core. 17 kms and 29 minutes later, we reached the gate. Few kilometers to the end, after one crosses the checkpoint gate, the road is rough. Quick formality (verifying against Aadhar card) later, a jeep was assigned and we started right on time at 6 AM for the Safari.

What an experience! 38 minutes into the Safari, we spotted the undisputed queen of Kolsa range, Tigress Kuwani with her cub. Spent the next 101 minutes with her and two cubs, witnessing a failed attempt of hunting Gaurs, lazing around and playing with her two cubs, grunting in hunger, and great photo-op while she was marking her territory with urine spray. It was heartwarming to see the family bond, Kuwani and her two cubs. The cubs were playful and curious, while the mother was alert and protective. One of the cubs was very alert and watchful to even the slightest sound around. Around 8:30 AM, we stopped at a common rest area in the jungle for breakfast and bio break, before heading back to the gate. On the way back, also saw a Gaur and Sambar deer from close distance.

By 10 AM, we were back at the resort, and a few hours of break later, after a sumptuous lunch, we embarked on our afternoon Safari to Shirkheda buffer. The resort was gracious enough to ice-pack water bottles in Cello like picnic box, for our journey. It was a very hot afternoon, and we reached the Shirkheda Buffer Zone Gate by 2:15 PM for our Safari scheduled at 2:30 PM. A quick formality later verifying Aadhar card against the booking, waited in the car for the gate to open. At 2:30 PM sharp we were into the buffer zone. Kilometers of travel through the buffer zone and multiple water spots looking for Tigress, took us finally to a pond that the guide was confident will result in a sighting. Waited for 2+ hours at that sight patiently, on the confidence of the guide, stemmed from his morning sighting at the same spot as well a deer calling pointing to that spot. While waiting, we could see few interesting and beautiful birds like the Indian Roller, red-wattled lapwing, Kingfisher, amongst others. Around 5:40 PM, the gypsy finally decided to move with the thought of returning without a sighting. Lo & behold, next to the pond and tall grasses was lying the ferocious and majestic Tigress Heena. At 5:43 PM, finally our wish came true, as we watched the relaxed Tigress unaffected by the noise of the Jeeps. She finally woke up with a yawn and snarl, looking at us nonchalantly. There was commotion all round amongst the Gypsy jeeps to give her path to the pond. However, she stood up and headed back to the other side of the grass, which led the jeeps to rush to the other side for a close glimpse. It was almost 6:05 PM, by the time we left from that spot. It was quite a distance from the gate and the gate closes at 6:30 PM sharp. It was one helluva ride back to the gate, bumpy and to the edge racing through rough terrain, amidst the screeching sound of the tyres and slides on the red mud. I could hardly sit at the back, was constantly jumping and in the air for the next 25 minutes. It was a thrilling experience executed to perfection by the driver but could have been difficult for elders. With the clock ticking to seconds within 6:30 PM we reached the gate, feeling grateful to have returned without any ache or injuries. Luka Chuppi with Tigress Heena during our afternoon safari, perfectly complemented and elevated the day for us, after our rendezvous with Tigress Kuwani and her two cubs during the morning safari.

Thus, a memorable day that would remain etched for the rest of our lives.

Day 3: Temples – Fort - Hyderabad

Around 9 AM, we checked out from the resort after a not-to-miss Poha and an Idli blooper for breakfast. On the way back, we decided to visit the famous Mahakali Temple in Chandrapur and the Anchaleshwar Temple next to Gond Raja fort. Around 11 AM, we left the fort, and reached Mancherial by 1:30 PM. Took a lunch break at Surabhi restaurant, before we started our final leg through smooth, straight, pacy highways back to Hyderabad. Reached home around 6 PM.

Safari Zones in Tadoba National Park: 

1. Moharli Zone:- Moharli zone is the most popular and frequently visited zone in Tadoba National Park. The accessibility and huge wildlife sighting of the park make it a favorite zone among visitors. The major reason behind its popularity among tourists is the high chances to spot the Tiger (pride of India) and not only tigers but other beautiful species as well. It is an ideal zone for photography and wildlife enthusiasts. The zone is further divided into seven gates.

·         Core gate – Moharli, Khutwanda

·         Buffer gates – Devada, Adegao, Agarzari, Junona & Mamla gates.

 

2. Kolara Zone:- This is another zone that is very beautiful and preferred by tourists. The popularity of the zone is all because of the scenic beauty it offers to visitors. The natural beauty of the zone will not only give you peace but will also offer you the presence of various wildlife species. The zone is situated at the heart of the national park (the central part of the national park). You can witness some of the very popular animals of the national park which include tigers, leopards, sloth bears, etc. This zone is not only popular for the presence of rare animals but you can also spot some very beautiful bird species. The zone is further divided into seven gates.

·         Core gate – Kolara

·         Buffer gates – Alizanza, Madnapur, Sirkheda, Kolara Chauradeo, Palasgaon & Belara gates

 

3. Navegaon Zone:- This zone is identified by its thick forest cover, providing a unique and fascinating safari experience to tourists. The dense forest creates an ideal hideout for the predators like wild dogs, tigers and leopards, which makes this zone great for spotting these animals. This amazing zone is situated in the northern part of the national park. It is a great zone for people who are into the wilderness. This wonderful zone is further divided into three gates.

·         Core gate – Navegaon

·         Buffer gates – Navegaon Ramdegi & Nimdela gates.

 

4. Zari and Pangadi Zone:- This zone is another gem of this amazing national park. It is situated in the eastern part of the national park. The zone is a combination of open grasslands and hilly landscape which makes it an ideal zone for people who craves the view of nature. This zone boasts a diverse ecosystem and plays an important role in the national park. You can spot various rare wildlife species in this zone along with the beautiful view of the landscape. The wildlife that you can witness includes leopards, tigers and various species of birds. This zone is further divided into five gates

·         Core gate – Pangadi & Zari

·         Buffer gates – Pangadi Aswal Chuha, Keslaghat & Zari Peth gates