Bidar - A day trip from Hyderabad
A day at the capital of Bahmani Sultanate
Bidar Fort
After a sumptuous breakfast, headed to Bidar Fort. We were the first to arrive around 9:20 AM. The car parking area was empty and was big enough to accommodate the normal rush on any day. Surprisingly, there was no entry ticket and this left me wondering why the Tourism Dept. isnt keen on generating revenue for better upkeep of the site. Entered the fort through Sherja Darwaza. Lovely photography spots near the entrance, to capture the vastness. Many of the historical spots inside the fort were closed for public and was disappointing, as we hoped to see Rangeen Mahal and Solah Khamba Masjid from inside. We were told that these have been closed for quite some time, and it wasn’t clear whether it was for renovation or to prevent defacing. All across the fort, it wasn’t pleasant (and sad) to see the defaced walls.
However, we were wowed by the red laterite stone layered present-day Bidar fortress, with its majestic entrance and excellent spots for photography. There are roads going through the fort, and can see bikes (no four wheelers) using the road. The tour inside the fort begins with a museum (recommended to see this first, though we covered this at the end of the tour). The museum, though small shows the history and important places (through photos) in Bidar and Deccan sultanate. Opposite to the museum, is the Rangeen Mahal, followed by Jail. Had to be content by seeing the Mahal from outside (locked gates), though one can go inside the Jail compound. Walking few feet further, one can enter a vast, well maintained garden area bordering the mosque. A good place to while away time with photography amongst the chirping sound of the birds.
Exit the Darwaza, and walk through the road that takes to Diwan-i-Khas and Diwan-i-Aam. We were lucky to befriend a person who was involved in the maintenance work of these places. Though the public wasn’t allowed to enter these, we were fortunate to get inside (as there was rarely any during this time), with his help and he also guided us to its history, excellent photo-spots and also was gracious enough to click our group photos. It is a common notion that these names are associated with the Mughal rulers. It was a high walled audience hall constructed near the mosque. It has intricate trellis work on it, giving it the name Jali Mahal. Built at a height, one can get a good view from here of the surrounding locations and fort breadth. Inside, one can also find a fountain (not functional). The guide was excited to show us the location where the song "Ishq sufiyana" from Dirty Picture was shot.
The tourism department should seriously think about promoting this fort with sound and light show, and guided tours with better access to historical places, similar to the Golconda fort in Hyderabad.
We spent close to 80 minutes in the fort, and then headed to the Bahmani Tombs (around 15-20 minutes drive).
Info:
Bidar Fort is a fort at Bidar, Karnataka, India. The fort, the city and the district are all affixed with the name Bidar. Bidar Fort consists of an old fort and a new fort. Bidar was the capital of Bahmani Kingdom in the 14th century. This fort was built by Ahmad Shah Wali Bahman. The Fort was renovated in the 15th century by Sultan Ahmad Shah-I as he shifted his capital from Kalaburagi (Gulbarga) to Bidar.
Rangeen Mahal is famous due to its tile work and the granite with mother-of-pearl inlay work are the exclusive features of the citadel walls. The external hall of Rangeen Mahal has intricately engraved wooden pillars and the Rangeen mahal has a six-bay hall with remarkable carved wood columns forming a rectangular foyer. Its walls are adorned with coloured tiles and beautiful stucco art. One of the most attractive features of the palace is a rectangular six-bay hall with carved wooden columns, decorated with elaborate capitals as well as carved brackets. Similarly, the wooden frames that lead to the inner chambers are also ornamented with beautiful tile-work. The entrance doorway is inscribed with verses from the Quran.
Bahmani Tombs
Not much crowded, the tombs stood majestically one behind the other in a lane. There isnt any dedicated parking space, but we could find one next to the entrance as there wasn’t any other car/vehicle parked yet. The tomb of Ahmad Shah-Al-Wali is the more popular one, where we went inside to look at its architecture. Most of the tombs have started losing its sheen, and on top of one of the tomb, was interesting to see grass growing. Except for few photography spots, that connects multiple tombs in one frame, there wasn’t much to spend time on.
Spending around 15 minutes, from here, headed to the Madrasa of Mahmud Gawan
Info:
Bahmani Tombs is a cluster of 12 tombs of Bahmani Sultans in the same compound. Artistically built, these tombs encompasses large mausoleums beautified with lofty domes, niches, and arches and one of the famous places to visit in Bidar. The tomb of Ahmad Shah-Al-Wali is the most sought-after one out of all the 12 tombs which consist of captivating walls engraved with verses from the Quran written gold. The paintings on the wall are beautiful and mausoleum with a swastika symbol is the main highlight.
Mohamud Gawan Madrasa
Wish the tourism department promote these historical places more fervently. There wasn’t a single person at this place, and we were the only one to be spotted. We were even wondering if we were at the right place, but the majestic building with its Islamic architecture is a place not to miss while in Bidar. Spent around 15 minutes, primarily taking photos.
Info:
Madrasa-e-Mahmad Gawan or the madrasa of Mohamud Gawan is an ancient Islamic institute in Bidar. Khwaja Muhammad Gilani (Mahmud Gawan) built this madrasa (college) at Bidar in 1472 AD. An imposing three-storied building, the Madarasa was a renowned centre of learning with its own library, lecture halls, quarters for professors/ students and a mosque. The institution had scholars imparting knowledge of Arabic and Persian languages, theology, philosophy, mathematics, etc. The front of the building is adorned with tiles of various colours along with two stately minarets on each side. Extracts from the holy Quran have been engraved on some parts of the walls, the remains of which can be seen.
Chaubara Clock Tower
A clock tower at a 4-way round-about junction, got a parking spot in front a shop (that wasn’t opened yet) to take few photos from all possible angles. One can't go into the tower, and the clocks in each direction shows a different time. From the tower, on the Chaubara road, are shops one can visit for Bidriware. The road is wide enough for traffic, and one can drive to the shops, rather than parking near to the tower (we realized it late, and walked to these shops)
Info:
Situated in the centre of Bidar town, this old cylindrical tower is 22 m high. It commands a great view of the entire plateau and was once used as a watchtower. Today, it is an important historical monument and a clock tower. The word 'chaubara' means a building facing in four directions. It is believed that the tower was built in the pre-Islamic period and follows semi-Islamic architecture. The tower has a circular base, which is 180 ft in circumference and 16 ft high. Small arched enclosures have been built along its lower parts and there is a large clock on top of the tower. The top is accessed by a winding flight of 80 steps. Four rectangular openings make sure that the tower gets enough light and air.
Bidriware
Visited Raj Bidri Art and Crafts shop, as they were known for Bidriware and have been award winners for multiple years. Amazingly good collection of Bidriware plates, sculpture, standalone or within photo frames, as well as ornaments. Spent around 30-40 minutes in the shop browsing and buying, to add to our collection. Loved the prancing horse work on Bidriware. The shop also had amazing collections on bronze artwork of various gods.
Info:
Bidriware: In the historical town of Bidar, under the rule of the Bahamani Sultans in the 14th century, originated a unique metal ware – the Bidriware. The craft of Bidriware was introduced in Bidar by a Persian artisan Abdulla-bin-Kaiser, who was among a group of skilled workers brought from Iran by Sultan Ahmed Shah Wali Bahmani in the early 5th Century. Abdulla’s expertise in this exquisite craft impressed the sultan to such an extent that he arranged for the training of local craftsmen in Bidriware handicraft in the Mahmud Gawan Madarsa.
In its original Persian avatar, Bidri work involved the in laying of gold or silver on a steel or copper base. In the present method, on a blackened alloy of zinc, tin, lead and copper, inlaid with thin sheets of pure silver, craftsmen work their magical filigree. All the process of making the Bidriware starting from casting to oxidation is done by hand and therefore it is time consuming and hence costlier too. The hookahs, goblets, plates, pen holders, vases, even bangles with patterns of vines, delicate floral motifs are a vision to behold. Bidriware also has a Geographical Indication (GI) tag under the World Trade Organization.
The process of production may be divided into 4 main stages viz. Casting, Engraving, Inlaying and Oxidizing. The base of the product is made of copper and zinc prepared in the ratio of 1:16. The metals are melted and the molten combination is poured into sand casts. Once cooled and removed from the mold, the surface of the rough cast is filed and smoothened with sand paper and then rubbed with a solution of copper sulphate. Copper sulphate darkens the surface, which provides a suitable base for the next stage of tracing the design and engraving. Next, pure silver wire or sheet is hammered into the grooves of the design and the surface is smoothened with sandpaper and files or with buffing machine. In the final and more interesting stage, the articles are heated gently and treated with an ammonic solution and soil taken from the fort buildings in Bidar which has the effect of marking the entire surface turn jet black providing a distinct contrast to the shining silver inlay. It is this contrast that lends Bidri art the uniqueness no other metal ware can possibly claim. This soil, which has not received rain or sunlight for centuries, is collected by artisans from the inner areas of the Bidar Fort. The paucity of raw materials impedes the mass production of Bidriware artifacts.
Guru Nanak Jhira Sahib
Our next stop, after a heavy shopping, was the Gurudwara, a well constructed, immensely beautiful shrine. Finally, a place that was crowded on a Friday and was bustling with devotees. One needs to cover their head with cloth while visiting the shrine. The kada prasad tasted well. This shrine is nestled in a valley, surrounded by laterite hills on 3 sides and offers tranquility to the visitors. Large parking area and toilets for the visitors
Info:
During his second udasi (missionary tour) of South India between 1510-1514 A.D., Guru Nanak arrived at Bidar to meet Pir Jalaluddin and Yakoob Ali. According to the Janamsakhis, the Guru accompanied by his companion Mardana stayed in the outskirts of the Bidar. Nearby were the huts of Muslim fakirs, who took keen interest in the sermons and teachings of the great guru. The news soon spread throughout Bidar and its surrounding areas about the holy saint of the north and large number of people started coming to him to have his darshan and seek his blessings. There used to be acute shortage of drinking water in Bidar. All efforts of the people to dig wells were of no avail. Even when wells produced water the water was found to be unfit for drinking. The guru was greatly moved by the miserable condition of the people, and while uttering Sat Kartar, shifted a stone and removed some rubble from the place with his wooden sandal. To the utter surprise of all, a spring of cool and fresh water that has flowed to this day. This is how the place soon came to be known as Nanak Jhira (Jhira=Stream). The crystal clear stream that still flows out of a rock near the Gurudwara is believed to be God's answer to the Guru's prayers.
Lunch @Rohit Restaurant
The best restaurant for Punjabi cuisine, around 800m from the Gurudwara, was surprisingly spacious and roomy. Loved the fish tank at the entrance, beautifully arranged in a rectangular arch. We were, as usual were one of the earliest to arrive for lunch (around 12:50 PM). It picked up crowd in the next 30 minutes. The cuisine was well spread and included Punjabi, North Indian and Chinese amongst others. One of the best kofta (vegetable), along with paratha, and lassi, left satiated. Service was good.
Baridshahi Garden (for Barid Shahi Tombs)
Didn’t knew that it opens only at 4 PM in the evening. Thus, had to leave from the entrance, disappointed. Even google maps/info was mixed and wasn’t accurate on the timings
Info:
Barid Shahi Tombs are located in a 55-acre verdant garden of Deccan Park and comprises the tombs of Ali Barid and his son Qasim Barid. Barid Shahis took control over this place at the start of the 15th century. Ali Barid Shah, the most prominent rulers among the Baridshahi loved architecture and constructed this tomb 3 before his death in 1577. Finest examples of Islamic architecture and beauty, this tomb is one of the best places to visit in Bidar. You can find the tomb of Ibrahim Barid Shah which is similar but smaller in size.
Papnash Mahadev Temple
Yet again, Google maps/info wasn’t clear on the temple timings. It was closed in the afternoon, and the locals were saying would open later in the evening. However, one can go in, and pray, though the idol inner sanctorum gate is closed. Nearby is the papnash pond
Info:
One of the most important temples of the region, the Papnash Shiva Temple is believed to have been built by Lord Rama on his journey back from Sri Lanka. It is said that he installed a shivling at this spot. Tourists can also visit a natural spring flowing into a pond in front of the temple, called papnash or the annihilator of sins. It is said that the water from the pond washes away the devotee’s sins and cleanses their soul. The festival of Shivratri is celebrated with a lot of pomp and devotees come from across the country to witness this grand event.
Return Journey
Around 2 PM, we started from Bidar, heading back to Hyderabad. Smooth roads (except for a small stretch at the Telangana border), un-interrupted drive. Took a small pit-stop at Grand Pariwar restaurant on the highway for Irani Chai
Other Places (that we couldn’t visit)
Shri Narsimha Jharna Mandir
This is a small temple dedicated to Narasimha, an avatar of Lord Vishnu.
Though visitors nowadays are few, people once thronged this temple in the thousands, because legend has it that the idol here is self-manifested (Swayambhu) and hence has mystic powers.
Legend says that Lord Narasimha first killed the demon Hiranyakashipu. He then slayed the demon Jalasura. After his death, the demon is believed to have turned into water and started flowing down the feet of the Lord Narasimha. This the spot is considered holy.
The speciality of this temple is that one has to walk through a 300-m tunnel of waist-deep, sometimes neck-deep water to have a glimpse of the idol. There are two deities Lord Narasimha and a Shiva Linga which was worshipped by the demon Jalasura, who was an ardent devotee.
Since the onset of the COVID pandemic, the tunnel has been closed to devotees, and is likely to open only after June 2022.
108 Feet Height Statue Of Basaveshwara (farther away)
Alternate shops (for Bidriware)
• Khaja Miyan Bidri Works, was closed on Friday
• Central Bidri Works
• Bidri work, Manhalli Rd, Basaveshwara Nagar, Bidar, Karnataka 585401 (slightly away)
Other restaurants (to explore)
• Satkar Restaurant
• Aamanthrana Restaurant, Nizampet - Bidar Rd, Nandi Colony, Bidar, Karnataka 585401
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